In 2006, the American documentary, ‘An Inconvenient Truth’ began a global campaign to educate people on the issue of global warming.
Today, we are witnessing what was predicted back then: increasing temperatures, ecological disasters, and melting ice caps.
But ‘we (humans) know how to fix this.,’ Al Gore believes.
How?
Well, the answer lies in awareness, collective efforts towards net zero emissions, and sustainability measures like avoiding greenwashing in fashion.
Greenwashing in Fashion
Customers today are becoming more conscious of their buying habits: from paper straws to eco-tourism to fashion. And as the demand for sustainable and ethically made clothing grows, many brands claim to be at the forefront of eco-friendliness.
But, are they?
In fact, quite a few are not as ‘green’ as they pretend to be.
The Rise of the Conscious Consumer Led to Greenwashing in Fashion
While consumers in today’s eco-conscious market are aware of terms like ‘sustainable’, ‘recycled’, and ‘organic,’ they also make the conscious decision of opting for sustainable fashion over fast fashion.
However, some brands aren’t exactly ethical about their claims.
That’s why we have the term ‘greenwashing.’ This deceptive tactic is used by other brands in the fashion industry, making misleading or exaggerated statements about how environmentally friendly their products are.
These claims are used as a marketing ploy to cater to the eco-conscious consumer rather than a true commitment to environmental stewardship or social responsibility.
But how can a conscious consumer tell genuine sustainable practices from dishonest claims?
Is it possible to identify which fashion brands are greenwashing and how?
For this, we consumers need to identify the practice of greenwashing in the fashion industry, and understand how some companies have misled consumers in the past.
Remember, an informed and educated consumer is better equipped to make more informed choices. Enough consumers making such choices can put positive pressure on companies and governments to introduce practices and standards that lessen their impact upon the environment, people, and animals that form part of the supply chain.
The Definition of Greenwashing In Fashion
‘Greenwashing’ is defined as “the act or practice of making a product, policy, activity, etc., appear to be more environmentally friendly or less environmentally damaging than it really is.”
This term first appeared in a 1986 essay by environmentalist Jay Westerveld. He pointed out that hotels asked guests to “reuse towels” claiming that it would help “save the planet.”
However, the driving force behind this decision wasn’t Earth and its resources. In truth, the hotel industry saw this as an easy way to cut down on their laundry expenses.
Any time a company uses a clever marketing strategy to make consumers think their purchases or decisions are helping the planet, (when in fact they are not) is called ‘greenwashing.’
Companies may engage in greenwashing by:
- overstating the sustainability of their products,
- using misleading labels,
- making vague and unverifiable claims.
These tactics mislead consumers without any real commitment to environmentally sound practices.
Cosette Joyner Martinez, an associate professor at Oklahoma State University, describes greenwashing as a mix of lacking meaningful information and cleverly manipulating words.
It makes things sound impressive when, in reality, there’s no evidence to back up the claims.
Similarly, the act of “clear washing” provides the illusion of transparency without offering any substantive information, like giving a supplier’s address but not disclosing their operational practices.
What Are Some Examples of Greenwashing in Fashion?
The fashion industry, especially the fast fashion sector, is well-known for its significant environmental footprint, from pollution and waste to high water usage and substantial greenhouse gas emissions.
As consumer awareness increases, some brands genuinely strive to become more sustainable. (And we love them for doing so!)
However, others merely use greenwashing tactics to ‘appear’ environmentally responsible without making real changes.
Here’s how:
1. Misleading Labels and Buzzwords
Brands throw terms like “eco-friendly,” “sustainable,” or “green” without any certifications in their descriptions. These buzzwords are intended to attract eco-conscious shoppers, even if the products do not meet these claims.
Learn more about sustainable and ethical fashion certifications for the conscious consumer here.
2. Vague Claims
Companies frequently make broad, unverified statements about their products’ environmental impact. For instance, claiming a product is “better for the environment” without explaining how or why.
3. Empty Promises
Several fashion companies pledge to reduce their carbon footprint or use recycled materials without providing concrete plans or measurable targets. Without clear accountability and transparency, these commitments may be nothing more than empty promises designed to improve brand image rather than effect real change.
4. Selective Disclosure
Some brands might focus on one environmentally friendly feature of a product while ignoring other harmful practices. This can give a skewed perception of the item’s overall environmental impact.
5. False Impressions
Some companies use another clever ploy and use color, green imagery or themes in marketing campaigns to create the illusion of sustainability. This visual strategy suggests a commitment to eco-friendly practices but there is no substantial action or intention to implement sustainable practices.
6. Tokenism
Sometimes a brand may launch a line that is ‘sustainable’ in an attempt to cater to the eco-conscious consumer.
The ‘green collection’ may lead many consumers to change their perception of the brand. However, releasing a limited “sustainable” collection or adding a few eco-friendly items while continuing to sell the conventional range is just a marketing strategy.
The brand tries to create an illusion of sustainability, in an attempt to distract and divert attention from their negative environmental impact.
‘Made with Organic Cotton’—Well, Kinda, Sorta. Actually, No Not Really!
Here’s a greenwashing example of a clothing company that tries to deceive its consumers and pretends to be eco-friendly.
They might label their garments as “made with organic cotton” without disclosing that only a minor portion of the cotton used is organic. Without third-party certification, it’s difficult for consumers to verify these claims.
While you may walk out with a clothing item thinking it’s organic, it may not be the case.
Similarly, many brands might assert that their products are “made with or made from eco-friendly materials” without clarifying ‘what’ those materials really are, or how they benefit the environment. This vague approach can make it hard for consumers to understand the true nature of the products they are buying.
The lack of stringent regulations around eco-friendly labels and marketing in the fashion industry means that companies can make almost any claim without much fear of repercussion. This makes it challenging for consumers to distinguish between true sustainability efforts and greenwashing.
Fashion Companies That Have Been Accused of Greenwashing
Many popular fashion brands have been accused of greenwashing. And while they continue to make claims of sustainability, critics, and environmentalists argue that, just like the hotel industry, these companies fall short of their environmental promises.
1. H&M
Known for its affordable clothing, H&M has faced criticism for its sustainability practices. Critics point out that the brand’s cotton suppliers use harmful pesticides and herbicides.
Additionally, Greenpeace has accused H&M of contributing to the destruction of tropical rainforests in Indonesia for rubber tree plantations. After an investigation by the Netherlands Authority for Consumer & Markets exposed their claims, the company dropped the “Conscious” label.
2. Zara
This global fashion retailer is popular for its trendy and affordable clothing. However, Zara has been criticized for not taking serious steps to reduce its environmental footprint. There are concerns that Zara does not sufficiently monitor its factories to prevent labor exploitation and the use of hazardous chemicals in production.
3. Mango
Another well-known European retailer, Mango sells fashionable, budget-friendly clothing.
Critics argue that Mango is not genuinely committed to sustainability, accusing the retailer of not doing enough to lessen its environmental impact.
4. Topshop
Famous for its stylish apparel, Topshop has come under fire for misleading claims about environmental commitment.
The company once claimed to sell 100% organic cotton products, which was later revealed to be only partially organic and contain both natural and synthetic fibers.
On top of that, despite their claims of using sustainable materials, they offer little evidence that the organization ensures its production practices are environmentally friendly.
These examples illustrate just a few of the fashion brands implicated in greenwashing, showing a pattern of companies making misleading claims about their environmental practices.
Exposing Greenwashing: How to Navigate Sustainability Claims in the Fashion Industry
Thanks to critics, environmentalists, and consumers who want to make sustainable choices, the fashion industry is on the cusp of major legislative changes aimed at curbing greenwashing.
In 2022, the Changing Markets Foundation reported that almost 60% of the sustainability claims made by 12 major brands in the UK and Europe were deceptive. While new regulations require brands to disclose their sustainability practices clearly, many companies continue greenwashing.
Despite these rules, many brands slip through and continue to make false claims and prey on the gullibility of the consumer.
Thus, greenwashing remains an issue. But by educating yourself, you can make responsible choices and avoid being misled by false sustainability claims. Here’s how:
1. Research the Brand
Before buying, dig a little deeper to understand who you are really buying from.
A brand’s website and social media are a great place to start. Look for details about their business practices and sustainability policies.
Do they share information about how and why they are sustainable? Do they disclose specific figures, facts, and even details about the supply chain, manufacturing processes, and environmental initiatives? Is their entire product range sustainable or just a small percentage?
Companies that are transparent and disclose details about social responsibility efforts, and how they source raw material are less likely to be greenwashing. For example, the brand Tentree shares details about its environmental efforts and publicises its certifications.
2. Certifications
Has the brand received any eco-friendly industry certifications?
Certifications like 1% for the Planet, Fairtrade, Oeko-Tex, and the Forest Stewardship Council are reliable indicators of genuine sustainability efforts.
3. Seek Third-Party Verification
Similarly, look for endorsements from organizations like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), or Bluesign to indicate that a product meets strict environmental standards.
4. Be Skeptical of Vague or Unsubstantiated Claims
Question terms like “green” or “natural” and any claim that lacks evidence. Be critical of vague or overly broad statements about sustainability. Remember, details like percentages and material are important.
5. Examine the Supply Chain
A truly sustainable brand will be transparent about where and how its products are made. Look for specific details about manufacturing processes and production locations.
6. Challenge Vague Statements
Is a claim like “made with eco-friendly materials” enough?
No. Without any supporting information, these statements are often misleading.
Similarly, another greenwashing example is of a brand that claims to be ‘biodegradable’ when in fact it is ‘made from synthetic fibers.’
7. Engage with Brands
If a company makes bold environmental claims, go ahead and ask them for proof. Engaging directly can help you assess their commitment to sustainability.
If a customer service representative is happy to answer your questions and provide proof, the company may be actively working towards sustainability. However, brands that are greenwashing will avoid sharing information, refuse to respond to emails, or simply stall communication that exposes their green claims.
8. Use Trusted Resources
Don’t have time to do the research and email the brand? Well, head over to websites and apps like Good On You. These provide information about various brands’ sustainability practices, helping you make informed decisions.
9. Shop Local and Secondhand
Buying locally reduces your carbon footprint and supports community businesses. Secondhand shopping is also an excellent way to conserve resources and avoid the waste associated with fast fashion.
10. Avoid Fast Fashion
Opt for quality over quantity. Embrace slow fashion by choosing well-made clothes from ethical producers. This reduces demand for fast fashion, which often relies on unethical labor and environmentally harmful practices.
Remember, the more detailed information a brand shares about their efforts on their website, the more they are likely to be sustainable. While a fashion brand that is greenwashing may avoid answering your questions and emails, a sustainable brand would be happy, and proud, to share their goals and how they are truly working towards a greener planet.
Moving Forward: From Greenwashing to Green Hushing
One EU screening found that 39% of sustainability claims across the textile and garment industry could be false or deceptive.
And while some brands continue to make claims of sustainability in these sectors, another emerging concept is green hushing.
Many companies now avoid sharing their initiatives to avoid backlash and the label of greenwashing. However, while their intentions may in the right place, experts believe that green hushing doesn’t help improve the environment and will only slow down progress in ethical fashion.
Their recommendation?
Well, they suggest openly supporting sustainable fashion by appreciating, purchasing and simply celebrating brands and initiatives that move us towards a greener planet – which is what we’re all about here at Econosa. Check out our brand guides to help you make informed decisions with your next fashion purchases.
We hope this article has helped cut through some of the industry hype and given you a bit more insight on your sustainability journey. Please post or share to help us spread the word!
