The word ‘vegan’ isn’t just about plant-based diets anymore; the fashion world is also getting its version of it: Say hello to ‘vegan leather.’
Interest in this leather alternative has jumped by 119% between 2018 and 2019 alone, and since then the buzz around it has only grown louder.
Brands like Topshop and Dr. Martens are now offering products made from materials that promise no harm to animals.
At first glance, vegan leather offers a clear moral and ecological win over traditional leather, which is often linked to animal cruelty, toxic chemicals, and pollution.
Yet, as more luxury brands cling to real leather for its exclusivity and quality, the debate intensifies between artificial and real leather.
Is vegan leather truly the ethical choice it claims to be?
Let’s take a closer look at the advantages and drawbacks of adopting this alternative in the fashion industry.
The Alarming Truth About Real Leather
The process of obtaining real leather can be much more harrowing than most of us realize. While there are some leather manufacturers out there that are committed to improving animal welfare, the grim reality is that more often than not, animals are treated as mere commodities. Oftentimes, they are confined to cramped spaces where they endure various forms of torture like dehorning, castration, and branding with hot irons—all without pain relief.
One startling 2023 study found that these conditions directly contribute to 90% of the injuries animals suffer on farms.
Florida law, for example, allows for 350 six-foot alligators to be crammed into a space no larger than a typical family home, creating a breeding ground for injuries, infections, and disease.
Animals like crocodiles and alligators suffer immensely at the hands of humans and are often beaten with mallets and axes.
The cruelty extends beyond just the extraction of hides; the tanning process inflicts further damage.
Despite common misconceptions, real leather isn’t biodegradable due to the heavy chemicals used in tanning. These chemicals, including lead, cyanide, and formaldehyde, not only harm the soil and local wildlife but also pose severe risks to human health near tanneries.
A report from the World Health Organization highlighted that residents living near hazardous tanneries in Bangladesh have a life expectancy reduced by decades, often dying before reaching 50.
Alarmingly, safety protocols are scarce, with children as young as eight exposed to toxic substances without any protective measures. Studies indicate significantly higher rates of leukemia and cancer among those living or working near tannery sites in various countries.
These severe ethical and environmental costs have catalyzed the search for alternatives, leading to the rise of vegan leather as a potential solution. This shift reflects a growing awareness and rejection of the horrors associated with real leather production.
What is Vegan Leather Made Of?
Vegan leather or artificial leather is faux leather derived from synthetic materials that lack any connection with real leather. While real leather is derived from cow and buffalo hides or other animal skins, vegan leather is made from plastic, or natural fibers derived from plants, vegetables or fruit such as mushrooms and pineapples.
The Different Types of Vegan Leather
There are quite a few types of vegan leather options available, that usually fall within three categories:
- Plastic-based leather options: PVC, also known as Polyvinyl Chloride and Polyurethane leather, which is made from a polymer of plastic.
- Microfiber leather: Leather made from polyester.
- Plant-based options: Eco-friendly leather like mycelium-based leather, Desserto cactus leather made from plant materials, or Pinatex leather (made from pineapple leaves.)
Is Vegan Leather Actually Better for The Environment?
Typically, vegan leather used to consist of plastic, and while it was a good alternative, the sustainability issues it brought along still pertained. Therefore, alternative materials such as polyurethane became an excellent addition to its process.
The conversation around vegan leather is complex, especially when it comes to its environmental impact. Vegan leather alternatives have been touted as a more sustainable and ethical choice compared to traditional leather, but the truth is nuanced.
While certain types of vegan leather, like those made from plant-based materials such as dessert cactus leather, offer a more eco-friendly option, not all vegan leathers are created equal.
Recent studies have highlighted the environmental concerns associated with traditional faux leather, primarily used in fast fashion.
Materials like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane, which mimic the look and feel of real leather, are derived from petrochemicals. These synthetic materials are not biodegradable and contribute significantly to pollution.
For instance, the production of PVC involves toxic chemicals that can linger in the environment for centuries. According to the Global Fashion Agenda’s Pulse of the Fashion Industry report, leather was ranked as “the most unsustainable material” used in fashion. Unfortunately, the petrochemical-based alternatives used in many vegan leather products are hardly better.
Pinatex Leather: Vegan and Sustainable
On the flip side, innovative vegan leathers made from natural fibers are emerging as truly sustainable alternatives. Materials like Pinatex leather, made from pineapple waste, or MYLO, derived from mycelium, are not only cruelty-free but also utilize byproducts of other industries, reducing waste.
These plant-based leathers decompose naturally, contrasting sharply with their synthetic counterparts. For example, the production of pinatex repurposes pineapple leaves, which would otherwise be discarded, transforming them into a durable material that leaves a minimal environmental footprint.
However, it’s crucial to recognize that even these eco-friendly vegan leathers can sometimes contain non-biodegradable chemicals that are used to enhance their durability and aesthetic.
This mixture of biodegradable and synthetic materials complicates their environmental impact, underscoring the importance of scrutinizing how these materials are produced and processed.
The environmental cost of vegan leather also extends to its production processes. Workers in factories producing synthetic vegan leathers may be exposed to harmful chemicals for long hours, posing significant health risks and potentially contaminating local waterways. This aspect of production highlights the broader implications of choosing vegan leather, and go beyond just the material itself.
So, considering these factors, is vegan leather actually better for the environment?
Well, the answer isn’t exactly straightforward.
While certain types of vegan leather offer a clear advantage in terms of animal welfare and reducing waste, their overall environmental impact varies significantly based on the materials and methods used in their production.
How Ethical Is Vegan Leather?
The shift to vegan leather has brought about a wildfire of companies jumping on the “eco-friendly route.” With real leather being nearly impossible to decompose, it’s important to look at the next best option.
And while vegan leather presents itself as an ethical alternative, one that aligns with modern values of animal welfare and environmental consciousness, how ethical is vegan leather?
To understand this, it’s essential to look at both the advantages and disadvantages of vegan leather.
Pros of Vegan Leather
Optimal Utilization of Agricultural Byproducts
Vegan leather creatively harnesses agricultural waste, turning what would typically be discarded into valuable resources.
For instance, after harvesting pineapples and cactuses, their residual leaves, which are often overlooked, can be transformed into high-quality vegan leather.
This not only prevents waste but also opens up new revenue streams for farmers and boosts sustainability in the fashion industry. By making use of these byproducts, vegan leather contributes to a more circular economy where fewer resources are wasted.
Humane Alternative to Traditional Leather
Vegan leather stands out as a prime alternative to traditional leather because it involves no animal suffering.
This shift is significant in promoting animal welfare, as it completely eliminates the need for animal skins in the production of leather goods. Consumers who are conscious of animal rights find vegan leather to be an ethical choice that aligns with their values.
Reduced Environmental Impact
The production of vegan leather is generally more benign for the environment compared to traditional leather. By avoiding the use of animal hides, which require intensive chemical treatment and result in significant environmental degradation, vegan leather presents a cleaner option.
Plus, as technological advancements continue, new and innovative methods of producing vegan leather are developed, further minimizing its ecological footprint.
These innovations often focus on reducing energy consumption and eliminating the use of harmful chemicals, making vegan leather a progressively eco-friendly choice.
Plus, as technological advancements continue, new and innovative methods of producing vegan leather are developed, further minimizing its ecological footprint.
These innovations often focus on reducing energy consumption and eliminating the use of harmful chemicals, making vegan leather a progressively eco-friendly choice.
Cons of Vegan Leather
Dependence on Plastics
One of the major drawbacks of some types of vegan leather is their reliance on plastics such as PVC and PU, which are derived from non-renewable petroleum resources and are completely non-biodegradable.
This means they can persist in the environment indefinitely, potentially causing more long-term harm than the production of traditional leather. The environmental aftermath of these synthetic materials can sometimes outweigh the perceived benefits, leading to significant ecological damage.
Chemical-Intensive Production
The production process for synthetic vegan leathers, particularly PVC, is notorious for being highly polluting. It involves the release of toxic chemicals like dioxins, which are extremely harmful to both human health and the environment.
Even PU, while somewhat less harmful than PVC, still raises concerns due to its fossil fuel origins and the toxic byproducts associated with its manufacture.
Partial Biodegradability and Toxic Decomposition
While natural vegan leathers made from plant materials are touted as biodegradable, they often contain synthetic binders or coatings to enhance their durability and aesthetic appeal.
These additives can prevent the materials from fully breaking down and may release harmful substances such as phthalates during decomposition. This not only affects soil and water quality but can also pose risks to animal health.
Durability Issues
Vegan leather often falls short of real leather in terms of durability. This leads to products wearing out more quickly and requiring replacement sooner, which contributes to consumer waste.
The shorter lifespan of vegan leather goods can result in a higher volume of waste products, as items need to be replaced more frequently than those made from more durable, traditional leather.
Greenwashing Concerns
Some companies market vegan leather products as entirely eco-friendly and ethical without full transparency regarding their environmental impact. This practice, known as greenwashing, can mislead consumers who are trying to make environmentally conscious choices.
It obscures the fact that some vegan leathers are not as sustainable as they appear, complicating consumer decisions and potentially undermining trust in eco-friendly products.
Is Vegan Leather Good Quality?
It is fair to question the durability and longevity of vegan leather. However, it is safe to say that there aren’t all that many differences when comparing it to anything such as real leather.
Vegan leather handbags, clothes, and even footwear like vegan sneakers and vegan leather boots are now being manufactured and offer many options and styles to choose from. And while the difference between real and faux leather remains, namely the smell and feel, the quality of faux leather has only improved.
Faux leather materials particularly those made from polyurethane tend to last quite a while due to their core element being plastic. This, in turn, makes them highly durable, and they do not get torn or varnished easily.
On the other hand, plant-based vegan leather might have a slightly reduced life compared to that of PVC leather.
The Future of Vegan Leather
Despite the challenges, there’s a hopeful aspect to the vegan leather dilemma. We can reduce plastic waste by shifting towards using recycled plastics in vegan leather production.
Take the example of Veganologie, a Dubai-based fashion company that started using recycled PU leather to craft its products. For every crossbody bag they make, 11 plastic bottles are transformed into vegan leather or spun into vegan suede.
Yet, this great innovation could fade into obscurity without proper awareness. The media, NGOs, and social media influencers play a crucial role here. They can help make recycled vegan leather a standard practice by simply spreading the word.
With widespread support, this eco-friendly approach could not only match but potentially replace real leather in the fashion industry. This sustainable path holds great promise for the future, steering us towards more responsible consumption and production.
We all have our part to play here, so we hope that this article has inspired and informed you to consider vegan leather for your next purchase. If you’ve found this information valuable, please share to help us get the word out!
